Triacastela and Dogs

A New Camino

13 May – My Camino ends tomorrow, our Camino begins tomorrow. Today’s walk through the frontiers of Galacia was pretty cool. The pictures I’ve posted on the countryside shows it all. It truly is one of the more beautiful regions on the earth and it’s been a pleasure trekking though the well groomed and maintained trails this morning. (Triacastela and Dogs)

The rains held off and the clouds kept the sun at bay to keep the temperatures just right. One of the more intriguing sights along the way were the dogs and cats. Being a pet lover, I’m always interested to see how others treat their animals and how they react to others.

Dogs

The dogs here are different, just different. The ones I saw today (and they are everywhere) are huge, they must be an in-bread breed of big dog and German Shepard. On top of that they are the gentlest, happiest and most amicable dogs I’ve ever seen. Some of them couldn’t care less that your there. They lay astride the trail and would barely pay you any attention as you worked your way around them. No barking, no growling, no threatening or curious looks, they couldn’t care less that your walking through their territory.

Others are a bit more friendly, they’ll walk up to you and lean hard into your legs and demand that you pet and rub them. They won’t get the hell out of the way until they had enough affection. Some of them are so big that if they weren’t gentle, it could be a very intimidating experience.

One gargantuan beast was laying in front of a Cafe/bar door munching away on a bone. You damned near had to step over him to get inside for a cup of coffee. He shared his space with a pesky and noisy cat who kept rubbing up against him and a chicken that was curious to what he was eating. He was happy to be in the center of all activity and the myriad of strange caminoites were only of interest if they’d pet him. I think it tells a lot about a people on how they treat their pets and how they train them to treat others. This speaks wonders about the people of Galatia.

How Far?

The regional ever-present kilometer markers tell us we’re under the 100 mile mark. I read somewhere that the local government wanted to change out the markers for a more modern version but the residents, and Pilgrim groups, fought against it because the old ones were so beloved, even though many of them were wrong. Personally, I’d love to see them pulled up as I hate the reminder of my distance and how slow I’m moving every kilometer or so. I’d just rather walk and get there when I get there. However, I can see the allure to many as the passions grow the closer we get.

A new walking partner

Tomorrow I arrive in Sarria which is the closest town that one can start the Camino and qualify for the Compestella, it’s a little over 100 kilometers walking distance from Santiago. Ursula will meet me there and we’ll walk the last 100ks together. My Camino alone will come to an end and our Camino together will begin. Two Caminos for the effort of one, how is it possible to get any better than that?

It’s taken three weeks, but I think now I’m ready to share the experience, and have the patience to do it as two. Today marked a turning point, perhaps the most significant event so far. A few kilometers out from my overnight village, I stopped at a beautiful spot overlooking this magnificent countryside, sat on a rock, pulled off my shoes and socks and aired my feet out in the breeze. I could not do that three weeks ago – the delay would have killed me.

Had I tried it, some poor Caminoite would have found my splayed out body along the trail dead of an annurism due to a self imposed, impatient, conniption fit. But today, while sitting there, a few Caminonites passed me by bidding me a ‘Buen Camino’ and I smiled back and with a ‘Hola’. The overwhelming urge to beat them into town wasn’t there. When I felt ready, I suited back up and strolled into village only beating the rain. I think I’m ready to take a leisurely stroll into Santiago with my incredibly cool bride and best girl by my side.

Post Script

I’m curious to see if ursula would recognize me with out the much hated beard? I’ve lost so much weight that my clothing drapes off me like they’re casts off from a bigger person. Walking over 600 kilomters in three weeks is a wonderful weight control program. I wonder how fast I’ll put it back on.

Hasta (Triacastela and Dogs)

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