Portomarin and the Birthday Boy

Birthday Boy

15 May, Portomarin – A room with a balcony and a view. I’m sitting in our three star hotel on the huge balcony over looking the Galatian countryside with it’s green fields, greener trees and wind turbines. Magnificent, and of course, the hotel bar helped me out with a Cupa Vino de Tinto. At 0001 hrs, I turn 55. I’m not sure 55 gets much better than this.     (Portomarin and the Birthday Boy)

 

This morning Ursula and I departed Sarria sharply at 0700, long before most of the slumbering caminoites in our hotel even thought of visiting the rudimentary breakfast bar. I was proud of her as she awoke before I and was eager and ready to go at around close to my normal time. No fuss, no muss- she’s a real trooper. The walk from Sarria to Portomarin was like walking through an extended park. The trails were extremely well maintained and well marked with those damned kilometer markers that remind you how slow your walking.

There was one exceptional marker, the one that showed we were at 100 kilometers from Santi. On this marker, they engraved the distance (rather than the typical brass plaque) so nobody would steal it. That marks a significant turning point, just a few days from finishing thirty some odd days and a life’s time goal, at nearly 55 years of age. Naturally I had to take a picture of the marker, naturally, I had to stand in line until all the other Caminoites got the hell out of the way so I could get a clean shot. But all is good.

Sarria to Santiago

Sarria to Santiago de Competstela marks a major turn in the Camino. As I previously wrote, the town of Sarria is the closest point from Santi that one can begin their Camino and get their Compestella. The Compestella is a certificate showing that you completed ‘The Way’. I guess in some circles that’s a significant document.

But what it means in practical terms is that the trail gets more crowded as do the alburgues, pensions and bars. Commercialism of all things Camino is not quite rampant in American terms, but it’s obviously picking up. This can be a source of major irritation to the Caminoian who started the trail 675 kilometers ago. But, all the guide books caution the walker from such feelings and remind us all that ‘Everybody’s Camino is different.’

Clearly, I have mixed feelings because I’ve humped every step with my own kit and own a sense of proprietary pride; but, I also get to finish the Camino with Ursula, who started in Sariria. The contrast offers me a convergent view, which is helpful when looking at the overall experience of ‘The Camino’ and what it can mean to each of us. Bottom line, one should focus on their own standards and goals and not get emotionally consumed by others’. It’s your own Camino.

Walkers

You meet all sorts of walkers along the way. Old, young, fat, fit, feeble and just awesome. It’s all here. What I’ve found fascinating are the differences. There were two dudes towing a wheeled backpack. I heard one of them (from Brazil) had back problems and could not carry a pack, so he decided to strap his kit in what looked kinda like a baby stroller and towed it behind him with a harness. I saw a Korean gentleman doing the same thing. This had to be tough because this walk isn’t easy and any variance to the way everybody else does it (the path of least resistance) has got to be difficult.

Hand Holders

What stuck me as most intriguing was the couple I saw holding hands. I’ve walked in front and behind them over a couple of days and every time I see them, they’re holding hands- that’s tough to do when humping a ruck and walking stick and climbing some of these single person trails, uphill.

There’s got to be story there. As I suspect it’s personal one, I didn’t want to intrude and ask them why they did it; so like most on the Camino, I made up my own story. I’m guessing that one or the other was not entirely true to the relationship and was caught out. But on reflection they realized just how bad they screwed up and in order to keep the relationship together in a moment of desperation they blurted out ‘honestly honey, if you give me one more chance I’ll hold your hand throughout the entire Camino.’ And now, promises of passion have come to roost.

I hesitate to reveal this theory for fear it’ll show just how shallow and insipid I can be. It’s entirely possible that they are just so in love with each other that they could not imagine walking any other way. My base story possibly reduces their uplifting, inspired and heartwarming experience to a droll and desperate action. But, when you see this day after day, you got to ask yourself, ‘what the hell?’.  (Portomarin and the Birthday Boy)

Hasta

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

Interesting Links (Portomarin and the Birthday Boy)

• Photos along the Camino and throughout the Iberian Peninsula
• Return to the beginning of this Journal Blog
• Enjoy our Journal Blog about our travels throughout Italy