Provence, a Snowbirders haven!

Snowbirding in Southern France – Provence.

My sister calls us ‘Q-tips.’ – Gray haired people.  That’s us!  Like most Gray Haired retirees we’re finding Alaska’s winters to be a bit too long, too dark, and sometimes, too cold.  We’ve taken the issue into hand and the last two winter seasons we escaped to the lower states of the ‘Lower-48’ with two epic RV adventures (Snowbirding the Lower 48).  This year we traveled further afield in search of sunshine, beaches and warmth.  Provence, Southern France is the first stop along our adventure.   (Snowbirding in Southern France – Provence)

It helps to have a bride that speaks five languages (French, being one of them) and is a professional tour guide.   Getting around has been no problem with a friend’s extra car, securing accommodations with the modern conveniences of Booking.com and AirBnB, in Provence during the ‘off season’, not an issue either.  Finding food is only a concern when you discover every restaurant you visit has the most delectable meals savored in a very long time…and you only want to return to the one, rather than experience them all!

Join the adventure!

Come along on our adventure as we write, but mostly post ‘family photo’ type videos,  capturing what we’ve seen and experienced.

In the Beginning

Flying from Anchorage to Zurich – Brutal!  But somehow Azuri and I made it without damage and only frayed ends from the wear and tear.  Azzuri, yeah, that’s our adorable 14 year old Cat – she travels with us.  After 23 hours of airports and airplane rides, Ursula met we two worn-out travelers in the Zurich airport and whisked us away to the our little flat in the Alp foothills of Vorarlberg, Austria.

Four days later, I rejoined the human race, again.  A full day of travel, 10 hour-zone time change and Jet Lag sucks the humanity (and felineness) out of even the most stalwart Q-tip.     By then, the snows arrived to the mountain top rendering the local road impassable, the car had to stay below at a parking lot…. a 45 minute trek up and down the hill.  But, we had reservations in France and the adventure called – off we must go!   A full morning of trekking through the snow with bags loaded on the sled and Azzuri in her carry-on around my neck and we were ready to escape the snows of Austria.  So far, our snow avoidance plan was failing, miserably!

A Great Start

With Snow in our rearview mirror, Lucerne was first on our Itinerary – Ursula’s Sister’s apartment.  A quick Birthday dinner for Ursula, a few days rest and an offer to leave the lovely Azzuri in the peaceful and quiet, un-turbulent apartment was a great way to start.  We’d miss her, but she’d be much happier for the routine and quite, rather than our normal turbulent and dynamic travels as we negotiate the highways and alleyways in an unfamiliar land with an unfamiliar car and hop from apartment to apartment every few days.   Couples have their own coping mechanisms with their spouses with whom they hate, absolutely fear, driving with.   Our technique is not very glamorous and rational and can be unsightly, … Azzuri is better off in sister Irene’s apartment.

A short Youtube vid of our departure.

Click here for the short Getting Started video

Annecy France

First stop after Lucerne was an undiscovered jewel (at least for us), the ancient village Annecy on the lac d’Annecy.  Ursula scored an hotel in the old town, in the center of everything we wished to explore.  Although the snows followed us from Austria, through Switzerland, it abated a few miles from Annecy….and was replaced with record rains.  The lake overflowed and the threat of floods was on everybody’s minds.  Not ours…we consumed our thoughts with a search for artistic photos (plentiful), French Culture delectable pastries, dinners, wines and fresh vegetables.  Really fresh vegetables are only really available in Alaska if you grow them yourself (or a local farmer).

The old-town abutted a beautiful lake surrounded by high hills and smaller villages of summer homes and local artisans.  It’s a stunning view and must be incredibly popular in the summer (that’s why we’re here in the winter!).  We hate crowds and lines and waiting…..typical Q-tip lack of patience.

The Old-town comprised of but a few criss-crossing ally’s and small streets…. All lined with restaurants, boutique shops, pastries and trinket shops – typical fodder for the tourist!  What made this town unique was a series of canals that bisected the old town.  Even the ancient City Hall (L’Hotel de Ville) had two canals running on either side of it.  And because the rains were flooding, the canals were filled to capacity and even flooding out some of the lower homes and stores.  In spite of their discomfiture, it made for very interesting viewing.   The old homes, castle and pleasing architecture added to the ambience of strolling through an ancient Village…at it’s high-mark.  It’s easy to get lost in thought while wandering such streets and allyes.  The real world just fades away.  Splendid!

French Food

Annecy is where we were reintroduced to the reality that the French simply are the best cooks,,,, and pastry chefs.  One could argue against it,,,, but they’d be wrong.  Simply wrong!  We’ll post a medly of the best meals we’ve eaten once we’ve finished with France….If the reader is not envious…. You simply have no taste!  Sorry… but it’s true.  If the pics warm you soul….come to France and be warmed in the belly, and spirit, as well!

Oh, the Coffee… can’t forget the coffee!  Devine!   OK, off to Avignon to see the Popes’ old hangout, and escape the rains.   Enjoy the short Vid below with some of the pics and check out the Photo Collage at the end of the page (still a work in progress)

Click here for the Annecy Video

Avignon

Three hours south, out of the Alps and into the sunshine, lay the historic city of Avignon. I drove, so the drama in the car was at heightened states…. That’s just the way it is.  No divorces resulted,,,,,but many poorly placed invectives flew freely.   That’s just the way it is.  In spite of the prognostications of immediately, flaming death, we arrived at our next AirBnB apartment without a scratch on the car, but measurably worn down by the effort.

Our first impression of Avignon was mixed.  The well preserved, incredible walls and ramparts surrounding the city heightened one’s expectations.  But, when we walked the streets, at first, we were unimpressed.  I couldn’t help but think we were walking through an old, run-down Mexican town.  It also felt ‘maze-like’.  The facades of the buildings were all about the same style and all of the same hight.  I felt like a rat in search of cheese.   

First Impressions are often Wrong!

That all changed later that evening for nightly stroll  and in the morning when visiting the city market, and meandering into the heart of town.  Wow!  Amazing.  Just the winter light decorations were enough to convince one they had arrive in an ancient and majestic setting.  The main street running through town leading to the plaza in front of the Pope’s old castle was adorned in festive colors, refined decorations and endless lights .   The crowds were almost oppressive in their size and vigor.  It seems everybody in the surrounding towns wanted to see Old Avignon alight.

I think ancient city designers purposely arranged their streets to confuse invading armies.  Once breaking through the ramparts the invading force with fight its way up a particular street, only to find itself in some forlorn part of town.  Other than two main streets, all the ally’s meander around and through each other.  But getting lost is a delight, more to accidentally come upon and amaze oneself at the sights and sounds and smells.  And the smells, exotic spices, bread pastries and the savory meals in preparation for a night’s feasting, they satiate the longing desire of something different.

Sights to be Seen

The Popes’ old Palace, we’ll actually castle, well fitted the dignity of a Pope.  If one recalls their old European history and the schisms, or separation of the Catholic Church, Avignon seated 7 Popes over a few hundred year (actually from 1309 to 1379…. Not quite 70 years…) history.   Avignon is where they presided, when not in the Vatican.  Clearly the designers meant to impress its visitors that the owner was a person of  means, ecclesiastical means. 

Personally, I now prefer my little abode with running hot water, flushable toilets and lights.  But, back in the day (the 14th century) if you wanted to impress with size, security, dominance and magnificence, ,, this place does it in abundance.  The grand hallway seems big enough to fit a small Village within.  Worth the visit.

Half of a Bridge

The old Popes Bridge, actually called the  Point Saint-Bénézet, is also worth the visit.  It’s an old medieval bridge that spanned across the Rhone River, and several of its large islands to another castle on the far side.    The bridge originally spanned 22 arches, or 920 yard long….but the present remains are only four spans.  It a bit of an oddity as it stops amid steam of the first tributary of the Rhone.   But, it’s still a beauty in construction and imagination.  

Apparently there is an old Germanic story where one is supposed to dance at the end of the bridge….I don’t understand why, but you should just do it!  We did, in the rain (it caught up with us).  So, Ursula sang, with umbrella in one hand and her Husband in the other, with a camera in his free hand.  And we waltzed the bridge while in song.   Fortunately we were alone….or we would have been after the dance and singing……This video will NOT be included in the montage below!

Special Notes

A week in Avignon was enough for us, but one could easy spend an entire season exploring the streets and alleyways and shops.

Special note, while in Avignon, we trained south to the city of Arles.  Know best for its huge amphitheater and the home of Van Gouge for a few seasons.  I think this is where he cut off his ear?  Very cool city to visit for an afternoon.

Second special note.  When in Paris, the Parisians go out of their way to make you feel like an intruder.  Apparently, not so for the rest of France.  Ursula and I are both amazed and heart-warmed at how well we’ve been embraced by the French people with their kindness, consideration and even desire to practice their well manicured English.  After several experinces in Paris, we are stupefied with the reality away from the capital and our daily, routine encounters with the French people.  This has been and unexpected and delightful surprised.   

Visit the link below to check out our vid of Avignon.

Avignon Vid

Aix en Provence

About an hour southwest of Avignon lies the provincial town of Aix en Provence (Aix pronounced just ‘X’). Our next stop. Why Aix….? We’ll; I looked it up online and learned the town features thermal hot springs, amazing architecture, loads of fountains…hundred perhaps, art stores, Cezanne’s home, many museums, beaucoup boutique shops, and incredible food. All this is accessible through meandering allies and tree-lined boulevards, plazas, and fascinating sights, all bejeweled with bright, festive Christmas lighting and decorations. What’s not to like?

On top of this, Ursula scored another lovely apartment with a view of the ancient Roman thermal Springs and a three-minute walk to the center of the Old Town.  

What to do?

With a week on our hands and the need to rush our exploration, our days were leisurely spent with one daily major attraction and many hours of roaming the old allys enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells of fresh coffee, bakery, and the aromatic, savory scents wafting from the local kitchens and frequent ‘people watching’ rest breaks with local wine in a myriad of Plaza Cafes. 

It’s a different life, one hard to envision from our little snow-capped hillside house in Big Lake, Alaska. Everything is rich in colors and history; Refined manners are everywhere, and smiling, happy people focus hard on enjoying life within this cacophony of busy noises, action, and humanity. It’s just different – and the difference is good.  

Notable mentions for Aix:

Cezzane Studio

• Artist Paul Cezzane’s last art studio is up the hillside street out of the central part of town. Apparently, when he died, it was left untouched for 15 years…. most of his collection of art tools and bottles, glasses, and stage props still remain. His studio, with the collection of his tools of the trade, is very interesting. Still, the real gem of the house is its peaceful, wandering grounds. The tree-covered gravel pathways with the myriad of metal-laced tables and benches overlooking the valley and town, are divine; they evoke creative juices….even if one didn’t know one had any. Worth the visit. 

Museums

• The Museums. Many feature art, some classical, some impressionistic, and a bit of very confusing modern. But what makes most of the museums noteworthy is the buildings they are housed within. Most are old stately manors, mansions, palaces, and even a former Bishop’s residence. They are worth the entrance fee alone. Walking through the museums, ignoring the ‘art’ or ‘relics’ or whatever they feature, but enjoying the architecture and imagining what it may have looked like in its heyday is fascinating. One place was even the former residence of the local Knights Templar Headquarters (In Arles, a town 15 minutes south).

Arles

• Arles. A 15-minute train ride south of Aix is also worth visiting the notable old Roman Amphitheater. Again, if you’re into architecture, this place amazes. The size alone is impressive, but when you try to figure out how they imagined all the stone arches assembled together could form successive layers of floors and area seating, one could hardly be more impressed with Roman architectural skills.  

Food

• Food, yeah. I feel like I’m beating a dead horse, revisiting this marvel of gourmet delights. But good food, and good service, is everywhere. It is the standard rather than the exception. But, we also ate cold meals in the apartment as fresh sausage, fruits, vegetables, and fresh baguettes were in abundance in every small grocery store. 

One could never get enough of Aix…, but for this Blog – Enough!  While we’d hate to visit with the summer crowds. I think that would, at least for us, ruin the city’s ambiance, romance, and curiosity.  Aix is definitely on the bucket list for a return visit….but in the Off Season only.

Click here for the Aix en Provence Video

Saintes Maries de la Mer

Nestled on a lonely edge of the Camargue lies the old fishing town of Saintes Maries de la Mer. It’s now a favorite tourist Village for the French to break away from the hot summer interior. We again scored another unbelievably fantastic apartment for a week. This apartment, located across the street from the Mediterranean, was a former tea shop before being converted into an Airbnb apartment. It still featured the extended serving bar with high stools, dangling lights, victorian love seats, and, best of all, a view of the ocean.

The Camargue is, so I’m told, the largest wildlife preserve in Western Europe. It’s mostly flatland, filled with marshes, wild white horses, and home to a vast array of birdlife. The ‘Flamboyance’ of Flamingos, strolling the marshes or flying overhead in a synchronized formation, is the only disturbance to intrude on one’s peaceful walks of solitude on the miles and miles of empty beach.

Tourist Get-away

St. Maries is one of the few remaining villages in Carmague, and evidence of its picturesque characteristics is that Van Gough often visited to paint his seaside scenes. That’s a good resume bullet for a desirable holiday retreat. The village itself features little to attract one’s attention, only two small walking streets lined with tourist shops, leather goods, and restaurants. The majority of which are all closed in the offseason. There’s a mid-sized church worth a 5-minute visit and an outdoor amphitheater that features bullfighting in the summer.

In the summer, the attraction must be the myriad restaurants, beaches, and buzzing interaction of all the sun-screened tourists. The village’s main attraction in winter is the miles and miles of marshland, birds, and long stretches of empty beaches. Mostly, we had it all to ourselves.

Food?

Did I mention the food was divine…. Of course.

We filled our lackadaisical days with long walks on the beach, naps, and one sumptuous meal daily. Road tripping for the apartment was limited to one day, checking out the next beach for the next stop….and unexpectedly stumbling across the exceptionally well-kept, mesmerizing, walled city of Aigues Mortes.

Its claim to fame is that it was built by Louis the IX to serve as a launching point for two of the crusades to the Levant. The walls are at least 30 feet high, and the ramparts are all complete. They absolutely dwarf any human standing next to them….a truly formidable defense in its day. The imagery of Templar and other knights and armed peasantry roaming the streets is complete. The town now comprises mainly a small commune of village dwellings with a few shops and restaurant-lined streets. It’s a magical place.

Off we go, again

After a week of living in our little Tea Shop and beach walks, we moved further West to the town of Palavas Les Flots.

(Click here for the short St Maries Video)

Palaves Les Flots

Palavas les Flots. It is a fishing Village with no actual claim to fame other than its present incarnation as a seaside tourist spot covered in apartments and hotels. In former days, it was solely a fishing Village that sourced the city of Montpelier, about a 15-20 min drive inland, with protein from the Med. At other times, it was part of southern France’s defensive system.  

We found a lovely apartment facing the beach and jumped at the opportunity to spend Christmas in a town slightly more busy than the quiet Village of St Maries. Besides, they had no beach views available for a second week there. 

The Village

Palavas lived up to its part-time bedroom community and part-time tourist destination reputation. It’s winter and the holiday season, so most stores and restaurants were closed other than the 24th, 25th, and 26th. On those days, about half were open. So, no major Christmas shopping here, just a few trinket shops mixed in with a few bakeries, cafes, and some delicious restaurants. 

What Palavas features and excels at is its beaches, endless miles and miles of walkable beaches. The Village sits on an inland waterway island. On one side lies the Med, and on the other, a series of lakes and canals. Although close to the principal city of Montpellier, it really is physically isolated,,, and hence, has fabulous, unpopulated beaches. A kilometer south of the massive apartment complexes, the intercostal strip of land is too narrow to support buildings, so when you stroll that way, it’s just you, the beach and Med on one side, and a lake just over the sand dune retaining wall on the other. Spectacular. 

The Surroundings

The town was quiet, almost abandoned, for the first few days, but on Christmas day, the beach was alive with walkers and families of walkers and extended families of walkers and strollers and coffee and wine drinkers. It was quite the social event, almost resembling summer – except few were swimming. Even though it’s the Med, the water is too cold for all but those who work at it. They must live nearby. 

A few miles south, at the edge of one of the lakes, lies the ancient, yes, everything is ancient, Cathedral of Maguelone. It looks to have been a prosperous surrounding area as the cathedral served as the seat of the local bishop (1563) when the seat moved to Montpellier. The remains still remain; they’re intriguing and peaceful. One can view the tall vaulted ceiling over the altar and the spacious overhanging atrium over its nave.

Another B***** Cathedral!

There are no cars nearby, only the sound of the sea and wind…and other gawkers of this peaceful Setting (but we all speak in hushed tones out of respect for its formerly ecclesiastical residents). One can view the Mediterranean on one side and mainland France just over the isthmus between and the Étang de l’Arnel lake. When people speak of success as a function of location, location, location…this place has it all. Well, at least it used to. It is a beautiful site for introspective thinking, peaceful walks, and occasional music festivals.  

After visiting the cathedral, we returned to our apartment through the backside of the lake and along the canal. Even without the short ‘wrong path’ and all the footage that it added, it was a much longer hike than originally envisioned… The day turned into an 8-mile hiking day. As it was Christmas Eve, our day was done, and relaxation and a lovely homemade seafood meal occupied our evening. What a splendid way to spend Christmas. 

Montpellier

On the 26th, we ‘Ubered’ into Montpellier (I guess that’s becoming a new verb in the English language). Stopping at the Commedie de’ Opera, a large Opera house facing an expansive plaza, we explored the large promenade street that bisects the ubiquitous meandering alleys, passages, backstreets, and corridors. This was “L’Ecusson,” the old town of Europe’s oldest Medical University (so say the brochures). Resplendent in old architectural structures, boutique shops, coffee shops …..yeah, you get the picture. Pretty much like every French’ Old Town’ I have described so far. And….yet, totally worth visiting! Even if you are tired of Old Towns (I personally don’t see how that’s possible…). It really is magnificent, and if you ever get the chance to visit Montpellier, don’t be a fool; do it. No regrets.

Special features….as you guessed it, another magnificent Cathedral (St Pierre) with exquisite stained glass windows., and a new feature, St Clement’s old Roman Aqueduct, converted into a raised walkway across the town (currently closed…..I guess 1,000-year-old aqueducts can be unsafe?). We enjoyed our day perusing all that it could offer in one day.

Down Day

The following day, Ursula woke up with a stomach virus, a devastating one that kept her in most of the day. The inevitable caught up with us, telling us to slow down. Unfortunately, no rest for the weary. Tomorrow, we head off to Marseille, or at least the airport North of Marseille, and launch into our next adventure. 

Morocco.

Yes, this brings to an end our Snowbirding in Southern France adventure and rings in our Snowbirding in Morocco Adventure. This also brings an end to this blog. Why change…..because I can only spend 90 days out of 180 in Europe. 40 days consumed this adventure, and if I want to make it almost to Spring, I must leave to ‘book’ time for a few weeks. We’ll return to Cyprus, France, or Switzerland (who knows?) in three weeks. If you enjoyed this blog, comment. If you didn’t enjoy it, comment! But if you did….then click on this link to follow along with the Zimmers in Morocco. Who knows what future sights and sounds to behold? Come find out

(Click here for a short Palavas Les Flots (and Montpellier) Video)

Photo Collage